Artificial grass installation in Arlington depends on what lies beneath the turf as much as the turf itself. The infill that props up the fibres, the base rock that carries water away, the seams that stay closed, and the compaction that prevents settling all determine whether your new lawn looks good, drains properly, and lasts. This guide walks you through the materials and methods that separate a durable installation from one that fails within a season or two. Whether you are converting a dying St. Augustine lawn, building a pet turf area, or preparing a pool surround, understanding infill, drainage, and base preparation will help you ask the right questions and verify the work being done.
The challenge in Arlington is the black clay soil that sits under most yards across the Blackland Prairie. Clay does not drain quickly, and when summer thunderstorms or a backed-up gutter sends water into a yard, poor base prep turns a dog area into mud and traps odour. The solution is not to hide the problem under turf; it is to excavate, grade, and compact a free-draining base before the turf goes down. This guide explains how that works, what infill does, and what to require in writing from any turf installation company you hire.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props up the synthetic fibres so they stand upright and feel firm underfoot, it protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light, and it adds weight so the turf does not shift in wind or under foot traffic. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective for general residential use. Silica sand is angular and sharp, which helps it lock in place, but some homeowners prefer coated sand, which is rounded and sometimes dyed to match the turf colour. Coated sand is gentler underfoot and does not scatter as easily, though it costs more.
For pet areas and dog runs, zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and helps reduce odour. Many installers layer zeolite under a top coat of coated sand to get both odour control and a softer surface. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in full sun. These products are more expensive than basic silica or coated sand, but they can make a difference in pet areas or yards where the heat is a concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tyres, is used primarily on sports fields and playgrounds because it provides shock absorption; it is not typically chosen for residential yards. When you request a quote, ask which infill is specified for your yard and why, and ask for the amount in pounds per square foot, which we cover next.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and this number directly affects how well your turf performs. A typical residential installation uses between 1.5 and 3 pounds per square foot, depending on the turf product, the fibre type, and the intended use. Pet areas and high-traffic zones often call for 2 to 3 pounds per square foot to protect the backing and keep the fibres upright under repeated use. The infill does several jobs: it holds the synthetic fibres in place so they do not mat down, it shields the turf backing from UV rays that can degrade it over time, and it adds weight so wind and foot traffic do not shift the turf. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by cheap installations. Without enough infill, the fibres collapse, the backing becomes exposed and sun-damaged, drainage can actually worsen because water runs across the surface instead of through it, and the turf ages rapidly.
The amount of infill your yard needs depends on the product specification, the climate, and how the turf will be used. A putting green may use less infill than a pet run, and a commercial sports or gym turf installation may use more. Never accept a quote that does not specify infill in writing as pounds per square foot. This number should appear on your written spec sheet, along with the infill type. If an installer cannot or will not state it, that is a warning sign that the installation may not be properly specified.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the turf itself. The process starts with removal: if you have an existing lawn, dead sod, or old turf, it must be stripped away along with the root system. Leaving roots or organic matter underneath creates a spongy, uneven base that will settle and develop dips. Once the area is cleared, excavation begins. The depth depends on your site, but typically the base layer sits 3 to 4 inches below the finished turf surface. Before laying base material, many installations call for a weed barrier, a permeable fabric that stops weeds from pushing up through the turf while allowing water to drain through. The barrier is especially useful in yards where weeds are a persistent problem or where the existing soil is very poor.
Next comes the free-draining base layer, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material is spread and compacted in lifts (thin layers) with a plate compactor to create a firm, stable foundation. For residential yards, patios, and balconies, an optional draining underlay or foam pad goes down before the turf. These pads add comfort, improve drainage on hard surfaces, and are especially useful under pet turf and play areas. On concrete or existing pavement, never glue turf flat to the slab without a draining layer underneath; water trapped between the turf and concrete will cause odour, mould, and premature failure. For balconies and rooftops, edge drainage is critical so water does not pool at the perimeter. The turf is then laid, seamed, and infilled on top of this prepared base.
Base Prep on Arlington Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Arlington sits on the Blackland Prairie, and much of the city is underlain by expansive black clay soil. Clay drains poorly and becomes hard and compacted when dry. If you install turf directly on clay or on an uncompacted base, water pools instead of draining away, odour becomes trapped, and the turf settles unevenly, creating dips and soft spots. Proper base preparation means excavating the area to remove poor soil, grading it so water falls away from your house and any pool, and installing 3 to 4 inches of free-draining material such as decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material must be compacted in lifts using a plate compactor, applied with enough force to firm it without crushing it into a solid mass. A properly compacted base feels solid underfoot and resists settling.
The grading is critical. Water should flow away from the house, away from pool decks, and toward the yard's low point or to a drainage swale. If your yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or odour problems in wet weather, base prep is only part of the answer. The underlying drainage problem must be addressed first, whether that means installing a French drain, regrading the lot, or improving surface drainage. If the site has a serious water problem that cannot be solved with base prep and grading alone, we will not install turf; the fix comes first, or the job is declined. Skipping or shortcutting base preparation is why many cheap installations fail within one or two years. A solid, well-graded, compacted base is the foundation that makes everything else work.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass drainage is measured in gallons per hour per square foot, a figure that tells you how fast water moves through the turf backing. Turf with perforated backing drains water through small holes in the backing layer, typically at rates of 3 to 10 gallons per hour per square foot depending on the product. Fully permeable backing allows water to flow through the entire backing material, often at faster rates. The distinction matters because a fast-draining turf still fails if the base underneath does not drain. In Arlington's clay soil, a high-drainage-rate turf on an uncompacted or improperly graded base will still trap water and develop odour. The turf and the base must work together. Pet areas and yards that receive heavy downpours are the real test of a drainage system. A dog run that gets saturated daily needs fast drainage and a base that moves water quickly away from the root zone.
For hard surfaces like patios, balconies, and rooftops, an underlay or drainage pad becomes essential. These pads sit between the concrete or pavement and the turf, creating a buffer that allows water to drain instead of pooling. Without a pad, water trapped under the turf will cause odour and mould. The pad also provides some cushioning underfoot and reduces the sound of footsteps. When you receive a quote, ask for the drainage rate of the turf backing in writing, ask whether an underlay is included or recommended, and confirm that the base is designed to drain. If an installer cannot explain how water will leave your yard, that is a sign that drainage has not been properly planned.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a rushed one. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet, and they must be sealed with seam tape and a specialized adhesive applied to both backing surfaces. Before adhesive is applied, the grain of the turf fibres must be aligned so the seam is invisible or nearly so. Misaligned grain makes a seam stand out and look unfinished. Once the seam is bonded, it should hold permanently. Nails or staples secure the turf perimeter and hold seams in place while the adhesive cures. These fasteners are spaced at proper intervals (typically 6 to 12 inches) around the edges and along seams. Too few fasteners and the turf can shift; too many and you risk damaging the backing.
Edging is the final perimeter detail. Bender board, a flexible metal or plastic edge, is secured around the turf perimeter to create a clean line and prevent the turf from rolling or lifting at the edges. On patios and turf-paver strips, the turf is cut tight to pavers and cool deck surfaces with no gaps. Power brooming comes last: a stiff brush is run across the turf to stand the fibres upright and spread infill evenly. A visible seam, lifted edges, or fibres that mat down instead of standing up are signs that finishing work was cut short. When you inspect finished work, run your hand across seams to feel for bumps, check the perimeter for secure edging, and look for even infill distribution. These details do not cost much more to do right, but they make a lasting difference in how the turf looks and performs.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before work begins, you should receive a written specification that details every material and method for your installation. This spec is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene or nylon, for example), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier is included, how seams will be sealed, what edging will be used, and what cleanup and haul-off are included. The spec should also state the workmanship warranty period, which typically covers the installation labour for one to three years. This is not a manufacturer warranty; it is a guarantee that the work itself was done correctly. Ask for the spec in writing before you sign a contract, and keep it for your records.
A written spec also protects you if you need repairs later. If a seam fails or the turf settles, a spec tells you what was installed and how, so you know whether the problem is a defect in workmanship or a result of site conditions. The spec should be specific to your yard and your project. A generic quote with no detail is not a spec. For residential installations, commercial projects, and specialty applications like playgrounds, the spec is your guide to what you are paying for. When you are ready to get started, contact us for a free on-site measurement and a detailed quote. We will walk through each element of the spec and explain why it matters for your yard. See our pricing page for ranges and to request a free estimate.